By Lorraine and Phil Shapiro

Hidden in the Hollywood Hills, Yamashiro (meaning mountain view in Japanese) is perched on a hilltop with a panoramic view of downtown L.A., the Wilshire corridor and Santa Monica landmarks to the west.

Hand crafted almost a century ago as a replica of a Japanese palace from the hills near Kyoto, Japan, what started as the Bernheimer brothers private estate is now an unique restaurant and gardens. Off the beaten track, a small sign on Franklin Avenue points to a very narrow road winding up the hill to the restaurant located above the Magic Castle, just 250 feet above Hollywood Boulevard.

A part of Hollywood history over 88 years, Yamashiro was a movie celebrity hangout during the ‘20s and still boasts a famous clientele. Known for its authentic Japanese architecture, it’s been a popular film location for motion pictures such as the Brando-classic Sayonara, the recent Gone in 60 Seconds, and numerous television productions.

With its glamour and glory forgotten during World War II, stripped and disguised by layers of black paint and wood, it became a boy’s military school, then apartments. Purchased in 1948 by Thomas O. Glover who intended to tear down the neglected structure to develop a hotel and apartments on the eight-acre property, a treasure of Asian architecture beneath the facade was unveiled. Not only did Glover restore the property to its original beauty, but over the years the teak and cedar mansion has been seamlessly enlarged.

Initially, a private bar in a back room was opened, which evolved into a popular Greyline tour stop for cocktails and its spectacular view. When the second generation of Glovers added hot hors d’oeuvres by guest request, Yamashiro restaurant was born. Now, 30 years later, Yamashiro seats up to 500 guests for dinner, private parties, weddings and other special occasions. Their catering menu includes many Yamashiro favorites and more. The serene Inner Courtyard with Japanese gardens and pool stocked with colorful koi fish is especially sought during the summer when the top is rolled back.

While Yamashiro has strongly emphasized Cal-Asian cuisine for three years, this concept is not new to Chef Masa Kurihara. Says Kurihara, who formally trained at culinary school in Tokyo, "I gradually introduced East-meets-West dishes 20 years ago, but now this approach has grown in importance. Trying different dishes and opening my mind to eye appeal is part of innovation." Attractive presentation on colorful designer plates also lends to the appetizing visual appeal.

Although sushi, sashimi and tempura still are available, the eclectic and contemporary fusion dishes provide a culinary adventure that you won’t find in most Japanese restaurants.

On a menu that glides between the Orient and Hollywood, that’s more about taste than trends, sashimi tartar, blending tuna and salmon into a creamy paste and sandwiching it between crunchy won-ton crackers, is an ideal introduction. Another fine starter is Asian-spiced butterflied fried shrimp centered with cabbage slaw. It’s served with honey mustard dressing with a decided kick.

If mini filet puffs are on the weekly changing appetizer menu, you’ll be pleased with the crispy, fresh-from-the-oven Wellington morsels with teriyaki sauce and garlic mashed potatoes garnished with waffled potato chips.

While Yamashiro salad with marinated artichoke hearts, asparagus, romaine and toasted almonds is nice, more unusual and flavorful is panko-crusted baked goat cheese salad with shredded endive, carrots and watercress with a citrus dressing.

The house specialty of soy-glazed Chilean seabass brings together rich, salty and sweet flavors contrasting with wasabi mashed potatoes and sauteed spinach. A favorite for years, the Yamashiro feast includes the fabulously rich lobster dynamite (an eastern version of lobster thermidor in a lobster shell), petite filet mignon, crispy ginger chicken and grilled swordfish with tomato salsa. Sesame and mustard seed-crusted seared ahi tuna is fanned over rice shaped as a flower accompanied by ponzu sauce and Japanese eggplant.

To drink with such food, there’s a small, but well-selected international wine list, sake and specialty cocktails. Knowing the Japanese penchant for French wine, we choose the 1999 Vouvray, Justin Monmousseau, at $8 a glass, $28 a bottle. Fruity and crisp with balanced sweetness and steely edges, it goes well with the complex pan-asian dishes.

Dessert? If you didn’t remember the inviting display as you entered the main dining room, a large menu of mostly French-style sweets entices. The mocha crunch cake layering Bavarian mocha cake with whipped cream, chocolate frosting and butter brickle is divine. Mochi ice cream in a sweet dough with fresh fruit is the only Japanese dessert listed.

After dinner take time for a leisurely stroll around the terraced Japanese gardens complete with tiny canals, rolling Korean grass and stately Japanese pines. You can still see the 600-year old pagoda set beside what was once a swan lake, now a modern swimming pool by an apartment complex.

For three decades, guests have enjoyed Yamashiro’s gracious Japanese ambience at Hollywood’s own mountain palace. Today, it brings together an award-winning traditional menu with a contemporary new direction in food and professional service to complement the great view. Window seats are in demand to simply enjoy the tranquil setting or watch the parade of cars and well-dressed guests embarking for dinner.

Appetizers from $5, salads from $8, soy-glazed seabass and seared tuna are $24, Yamashiro feast is $39, desserts from $7.

The restaurant is open for dinner daily from 5:30 p.m. until 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, until 11 p.m. on Friday and Saturday. Valet parking.
Yamashiro
1999 N. Sycamore Avenue
Hollywood
(323) 466-5125