By Lorraine and Phil Shapiro

Once you’ve visited Napa and Sonoma wine countries, the pristine reaches of Mendocino, the northernmost wine-touring area in California, invites exploring. Those driving the Mendocino wine trail encounter a California that exists elsewhere only in memory.

From the Sonoma Valley, over the Coastal Range through the redwood "Tunnel to the Sea," the town of Mendocino is perched on a bluff some 150 miles north of San Francisco. Surrounded by mist-shrouded cypress and the ocean crashing against cliffs, it’s a Victorian village where time seemingly has stood still.

An active logging town until the Depression closed the local mill, artists in the ‘60s and ‘70s discovered that Mendocino was affordable and sparsely populated, then tourism awakened the sleepy town in the mid-’80s. Park and stroll along the uncrowded streets, visiting shops, museums, art galleries, and restaurants, and perhaps spying grey whales spouting in the distance during their spring and late fall migrations.

Most Mendocino’s wineries are clustered along Highway 128 following the course of the Navarro River through Anderson Valley. It’s open to the Pacific Ocean with cooling late evening and morning fog for climate zones similar to Napa Valley.

The tradition of winemaking began over a century ago when immigrants planted grapes along the Anderson Valley ridges to produce wine mostly for their own consumption. For many years, most of the grapes went into jug wines, but the ‘60s brought greater interest in premium varietals enticing newcomers to open boutique wineries. Today, this bucolic area provides a treasure of uncrowded roads and wineries with most offering samples of estate bottlings at no charge.

Mendocino’s long, cool growing season is ideal for Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The latter two are used for sparkling wine. Twenty-year old Scharffenberger Cellars, now called Pacific Echo, produces some of the best California sparklers. Roederer Estate’s founder Louis Roederer searched two years before choosing his nearby location, now totalling 500 acres to produce Brut, Extra Dry and Rose bubbly, building a tasting room like a French chateau.

Across the road, the Husch tasting room is a cottage dating back to the ‘70s. White wines still rule here with Sauvignon Blanc and La Ribera Blanc best buys. Handley Cellars also produces excellent whitesNChardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and GewurztraminerNthanks to enologist-owner Milla Handley, great granddaughter of Brewer Henry Weinhard.

Found at top restaurants but not in retail shops, Navarro
Vineyards varietals are available at the winery or by mail order. Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are top sellers, but it was their Pinot Noir that caught our attention.

Greenwood Ridge is housed in a beautiful redwood structure, designed and built by a Frank Lloyd Wright disciple. Winemaker-owner Allan Green’s production is limited, but quality oriented. Try their crisp Sauvignon Blanc, poured into Riedel stemware.

Mendocino’s ageless character has been preserved because it’s an historic district with strict guidelines. "Change has been subtle," says Jim Moorehead, who opened the Joshua Grindle Inn 11 years ago, one of 15 Bed and Breakfasts in the area and member of the Distinguished Inns of North America. This welcoming bed and breakfast, with 10 tastefully decorated rooms, is known for healthful breakfasts. Arlene and Jim Moorehead’s cookbook, "Mendocino Mornings," is more than a collection of breakfast recipes, it also provides a glimpse of the history and culture.

While most of the once abundant water towers used to supply water pressure have been destroyed by fire, storms, neglect or dismantling, some of the remaining towers have been rebuilt for other uses. Imagine staying in a cozy room in a three-storied tower such as the one at Joshua Grindle Inn.

In a cozy turn-of-the-century Victorian home, Cafe Beaujolais has been a destination for contemporary American food with ethnic influences since 1984. Regulars come for multi-grain bread, seared day-boat sea scallops with black chanterelles in Asian coconut milk sauce, and toasted goat cheese salad. Although Margaret Fox and Christopher Kump sold their esteemed restaurant in 2000, new owner Steven Jenks and Chef John Stroup have continued its tradition of excellence and dedication to freshness and organic foods, adding some French inspired dishes.

MacCullum House offers a taste of local life and flavors in one of the grand Mendocino Victorians. Chef-owner Alan Kantor features regional wines, seasonal produce, poultry and meats in such dishes as crimini mushroom soup, Liberty Farm duck pizzetta,tarragon chicken and McCormick/Anderson Ranches lamb shank.

Another distinct grape-growing region that’s easily visited when you’re in Mendocino county is the warmer area from Hopland to Redwood Valley that’s kind to red wine varietals. Fetzer Vineyards is one of the state’s largest, in Hopland (as in hops for beer). The Fetzer Food and Wine Center, on California Route 175 off U.S. Highway 101, attracts thousands of travelers every year for their Sundial Chardonnay, Valley Oaks Cabernet and Eagle Peak Merlot. Barrel Select at a few dollars more offers greater complexity. Organically certified wines under the Bonterra label have popularized their new vinicultural approach. A second tasting room is in downtown Mendocino.

Plan to have lunch in Fetzer’s cozy gourmet deli or picnic on the lovely grounds, enjoying pizza, salads such as pasta, couscous with almonds and beet, sandwiches, grilled salmon on udon and grilled vegetables with a glass of wine.

Relax at Fetzer Bed & Breakfast with 10 comfortable rooms and suites overlooking the vineyards. Breakfast usually is served in the Sundial room where you can share experiences with fellow enophiles. When not fully booked, a breakfast basket can be enjoyed in the privacy of your room.

Starting in 1932 at Prohibition’s end, before wine was fashionable, Parducci, an old-line Italian family, made its mark in winemaking in nearby Ukiah. Now, the old-time Italian-style bulk wine has given way to vintage-dated varietals.

Yes, this scenic wine country brings together good food, good wine and a sense of history and geography. When you uncork a bottle of wine purchased directly at the winery, you’ll uncap some wonderful Mendocino memories.

TOURING THE MENDOCINO WINE COUNTRY

WINERIES:
FETZER VINEYARDS 13601 Eastside Rd., Hopland, (800) 846-8637
Daily 9 to 5

FETZER MENDOCINO TASTING ROOM
45070 Main Street, Mendocino, (707) 937-6191
Daily 10 to 6

GREENWOOD RIDGE VINEYARDS
5501 Highway 128, Philo, (707) 895-2002
Daily summer 10 to 6, winter 10 to 5

HANDLEY CELLARS 3151 Highway 128, Philo, (707) 895-2190
Daily summer 11 to 6, winter 11 to 5

HUSCH VINEYARDS
4400 Highway 128, Philo, (707) 895-3216
Daily summer 10 to 6, winter 10 to 5

NAVARRO VINEYARDS
5601 Highway 128, Philo, (707) 895-3686
Daily 10 to 5

PACIFIC ECHO
8501 Highway 128, Philo, (800) 824-7754
Daily 11 to 5

PARDUCCI WINE CELLARS, 501 Parducci Road, Ukiah, (707) 462-9463
Daily 9 to 5

ROEDERER ESTATE
4501 Highway 128, Philo, (707) 895-2288
Daily 11 to 5

RESTAURANTS:
CAFE BEAUJOLAIS
961 Ukiah Street, Mendocino, (707) 937-5614, open daily

MacCULLUM HOUSE RESTAURANT
45020 Albion St., Mendocino, (707) 937-5763, dinner 5:30 to 9:30

BED & BREAKFASTS
JOSHUA GRINDLE INN, P.O. Box 647, Mendocino, (800) 474-6353
Rooms from $110

FETZER BED & BREAKFAST, 13601 Eastside Rd., Hopland
(800) 846-8637, Rooms from $135