While nutritionists recommend that we eat a variety of foods, did they ever envision restaurants serving global cuisine with dishes and influences from a number of countries?

Since Hugo Molina opened his restaurant three years ago at the former Roxxi spot at Green and Wilson in Pasadena, diners have convened for his eclectic California menu, with strong Caribbean and Latin influences. Asian flavors are a secondary note, with more Asian items to be added to his new menu.

Molina is cooking different dishes than those he introduced at Bob and Gregg Smith’s Parkway Grill, Arroyo Chop House and Crocodile Cafes, where he created a rich diversity for over 13 years. Recently Molina received top culinary awards: recognized as one of the 200 top chefs of the year, Southern California Restaurant Writers chef of the year, and Heros (restaurant employees honored for top service) restaurateur of the year.

His sleek, sophisticated restaurant with pale green walls, an open kitchen and wine bar directs your attention to what’s unfolding on the plate. There’s a strong floral motif from the beautiful arrangements throughout the interconnecting rooms to a blossom decorating each course. Service is professional.

You’ll encounter things here that you won’t find elsewhere: a Nuevo Latino theme, a penchant for fruit, and deep-flavored reduction sauces, which are most apparent in the appetizers. The fresh poblano chile is Oaxacan-style, based on a cuisine from the south of Mexico that’s a different blend of Spanish and indigenous elements than standard Mexican offerings. Stuffed with shrimp and mushrooms under a mantle of cheese, it’s sauced with huitlacoche, the sought-after Mexican fungus that grows on corn and produces an inky, mushroom flavor.

Quesadillas are two small egg-shaped packets of crisp, delicate corn crust, not the usual tortillas; one filled with curried chicken and the other with Manchego cheese and sauteed portobellos. One of the most popular appetizers is the plump
crab cake set in a pool of lobster lemongrass cream striped with basil infusion and mango-papaya salsa. Sashimi poke of rare Ahi tuna on black sushi rice, served with chopsticks, is an upscale take on a Hawaiian favorite.

The entrees not only have intriguing sauces, but are presented tall. Molina’s Guatamalan heritage shows in the pipian sauce, similar to a Mexican mole poblano with chocolate, cinnamon, sesame seeds and dried chiles, plus achiote paste, toasted squash seeds and sweet vermouth, perfect with salmon roasted in a banana leaf. Three glazed lamb chops, nicely grilled medium, are arranged upright over rich goat cheese mashed potatoes in wild berry-accented Merlot sauce. Mesquite-grilled halibut in a mild sweet-sour sauce is perched on risotto, topped with shredded cucumber salad and garnished with shrimp. Whole fried catfish, with its head and tail intact, is platter-sized, with jasmine rice and lemon-soy on the side.

Desserts by his wife-pastry chef Aricia Alvarado are just as inspired, translating art into dessert. Phyllo ravioli are crisp pockets filled with apples and pears, served with papaya caramel sauce and walnut ice cream. Chocolate towers also are popular,filled with dark and white chocolate cream on a cooky base.

On their mostly California wine list of the big and boutique, the 1996 Markham St. Helena, Napa Valley, Cabernet Sauvignon had depth and richness in a soft and accessible style, at $35.

Appetizers start at $4.75 with poblano chile at $9.75, crab cake at $10.95, halibut and catfish entrees are $21.95, lamb chops are $23.75. Desserts range from $5.50 to $7.50.

The restaurant is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner Monday throughThursday from 5 to 9 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 10 p.m. Free convenient parking adjacent.

Hugo Molina Restaurant
1065 Green Street
Pasadena
(626) 449-7820

Nowhere but in Beverly Hills can you dine on upscale comfort food, rub shoulders with celebrities (Star Trek’s Jonathan Frakes was in the next booth) and relax in a hip but casual place.

With the opening of Nic’s Restaurant and The Martini Lounge in 1998, veteran chef Larry Nicola offers the innovative American cuisine that made L.A. Nicola in Silver Lake so popular in the ‘80s. Says Nicola, "Our concept was simple; We wanted to create a happening neighborhood retreat (supper club), where guests can enjoy each other’s company, talk, listen and dine on great food."

Once a fine food purveyor visiting 26 countries, Nicola learned about marrying American food with ethnic flavors. Using seasonal organic produce, free-range poultry and fresh seafood,the menu combines some of his famous items and new ideas in dishes where taste is more important than striking presentation.

You can make a meal of appetizers such as the signature sauteed oysters with spinach and walnuts, lighter and more interesting than oysters Rockefeller. Tall crab cakes, almost entirely sweet crab, are some of the best we’ve eaten, served with lemon dill aioli and curly endive. Peppered, lightly seared ahi tuna is arranged tee-pee fashion over Japanese pickled ginger.

Adjacent to the main dining room, the Martini Lounge serves a variety of hors d’oeuvres from 5 to 7 p.m. for just $5. With over 50 types of martinis, their cocktail menu is unrivaled. Each day bartender Lily Wong expands the number of choices by offering a martini of the day. If you’re not in the mood for an exotic martini, the wine list is well chosen with varietals from California, Oregon, France, Italy and New Zealand. The 1998 Napa Cakebread Sauvignon Blanc is in the classic varietal style with hints of citrus, at $28.

Grilled airline chicken breast with the wing attached, cloaked with sweet Pommery mustard and accompanied by a pile of skinny frites is a perennial favorite, while the evening special of pork chop with persimmon sauce is like autumn on a plate. Such specials give Nicola a chance for creativity.

Nic’s appeals to all senses with original artwork such as Joel Gilman’s nudes on display throughout the restaurant and live
entertainment on weekend nights from 9 p.m.

Appetizers start at $9, salads from $7, entrees range from $19 to $30 dollars, desserts are $7.

The restaurant is open for dinner Monday through Thursday from 6 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday until 11 p.m.



Nic’s Restaurant
453 North Canon Drive
Beverly Hills
(310) 550-5707