Tengu, the hip, happening Asian-inflected eatery in Westwood, is not your conventional Japanese restaurant. This sushi bar-restaurant-lounge hybrid is the bright idea of Alan Nathan and Anton Posniak. These two young men from South Africa, with a passion for Japanese food, have a track record in the restaurant and nightclub industry, including the Garden of Eden in Hollywood. Says Bar Manager Guy Ravid, "We visited almost all the sushi bars to check out the scene, before deciding on this."
Tengu, which loosely translates as "god of mischief," mixes Zen motifs and sake cocktails with sushi and sashimi for a thirty-something crowd. Located near UCLA and Westwood’s business district, Tengu brings in a happy-hour set and more serious diners starting at 7:30 p.m., even weekdays.
Natural elements of stone, sand and warm woods in screens, beams and counter tops are used to create an open, yet secluded atmosphere with a covey of rooms.
Infusing sake with fruit, perhaps pineapple, strawberry, mango or watermelon, their signature drinks served straight-up in martini glasses, garnished with fruit are pretty, yet powerful. Thankfully, no sugar is added. Eleven sakes, poetically described as the wine of kings and the nectar of the Gods, are more traditional. Their small, but well-chosen wine list includes the 1998 South African Fleur de Cap Chardonnay that emphasizes the grapes’ freshness with no assertive oakiness. At $18, it’s moderately priced and eminently drinkable.
Sushi chef Masaru Mizokami, with 30 years of experience in Kaiseki cuisine, pleases guests at the 12-seat sushi bar with his garnet-colored toro, the evening’s special of yellowtail-like kampachi, oyster shooters and sashimi. Prepared for one or two, Chef "Masa" urges you to try his omakase selection of sushi, sashimi and other specialty dishes.
Generous hot appetizers are a strong point thanks to restaurant Chef Kenny Matsumoto, who trained in Tokyo and worked at establishments featuring Japanese-Italian fusion cuisine. Don’t miss the crispy tofu tower of contrasting texture, color and flavor with a crunchy exterior and molten tofu interior, dotted with carrot and green onion shreds and black tiger shrimp. Tengu tuna salad sprinkled with garlic chips is another specialty. The triumph was a nicely-sized baked cod basted with miso-sake-ginger sauce for a rich, buttery fish that flakes with a touch of a chopstick. Service is prompt, perhaps too prompt: so order the main course after the appetizers for more leisurely dining. Some of the more authentic Japanese items such as tempura are a meal in themselves, served with sunomono salad, rice and miso soup. But beef teriyaki is a departure from the traditional, partnered with mashed potatoes, broccoli, tomatoes and mushrooms.
Pasta also combines east and west influences in one dish. Spaghettini alla Japonaise pairs sauteed chicken with vegetables in garlic soy sauce. Green tea pasta of slightly firm green spaghetti with shrimp and shiitake strips in creamy Alfredo sauce is handsome on black plates and delicious, although rich. Served in a coconut shell, coconut ice cream, listed as a sorbet, also was richer than anticipated, but we managed to finish it, too!
Regular sushi runs around $4.50 to $5.50 per order, rolls are higher, sashimi from $6. Appetizers from $5, entrees from $11.50, ice cream desserts from $4. Omakase, for one, is $60, for two, $100. The restaurant is open for lunch, Monday through Friday 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m., dinner Sunday through Thursday 5:30 to 11 p.m. Friday and Saturday until midnight.
Tengu
10845 Lindbrook, Suite 100
Los Angeles
(310) 209-0071
At Sushi Zawa, almost fifty varieties of sushi are available, such as the inventive lobster roll, rich-flavored eel and cucumber roll, and colorful rainbow roll. The three sushi chefs, in traditional kimono and head band, also prepare special combinations by request. Seafood lovers also will find sashimi, calamari tempura and unusual salads of thinly sliced octopus and baked salmon skin, enhanced with a splash of vinegar dressing. The Sakana boat for two, promises 18 pieces of sushi, two kinds of sashimi, hand rolls and California rolls, plus soup and salad.
Steve and Vivian Chan’s Sushi Zawa in the heart of Burbank’s Media City district is close by Gourmet 88, one of their three Mandarin Chinese restaurants. Designed by Vivian Chan, Sushi Zawa is a tri-level restaurant and sushi bar, whose white walls and bamboo accents form a simple, inviting space. Moving away from seafood, try appetizers of pan-fried pork dumplings called gyoza and yakitori skewers of grilled chicken and vegetables. Popular a la carte entrees of sukiyaki, teriyaki beef, chicken or salmon, lacy shrimp and vegetable tempura, served with miso soup, salad and steamed rice, are available on the combination dinner. The luncheon favorite of soft udon noodles in broth with seafood or chicken also is served for dinner. Order the fried shrimp in the tempura udon on the side to keep the coating crisp.
No meal is complete without tasting the tempura ice cream. A ball of vanilla, green tea or red bean ice cream, is wrapped in sponge cake, dipped in tempura batter and fried golden for this unusual dessert of flavor and temperature contrasts.
Sushi starts at $2.60 for an egg dish, an assorted sushi dinner with soup and salad starts at $11.95, sashimi combination from $13.25, gyoza is $4.95, yakitori is $4.50, combination dinner is $12.50 for two items, $14.50 for three items, less for lunch. Sakana boat is $47. Tempura ice cream is $3.00, plain green tea or red bean ice cream is $1.95.
The restaurant is open for lunch Monday through Friday from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner is 5:30 to 10 p.m. Monday through Thursday, until 10:30 p.m. on Friday, 3 to 10:30 p.m. on Saturday, from 1 to 10:00 p.m. on Sunday.
Sushi Zawa
208 East Palm Avenue
Burbank
(818) 848-0688